The Great Sagada Adventure

Sagada is Kabunyan.

Kabunyan is Heaven.

Sagada IS Heaven.

Along the Banga-an trail from the Big Falls.

Sagada is heaven for those who enjoy the outdoors and the adventures that come with it, for those who love cool to chilly weather, for those who love fresh blueberry or strawberry yoghurt, for those who like mysterious, enchanting places, and for those who just love to relax and absorb the peace and silence.

A farmer form Banga-an

HOW WE GOT THERE:
The first time we went to Sagada, we rented the van, which took us around Banaue and Bontoc to take us to Sagada. I believe you can also take public transport from Banaue to Bontoc, then Bontoc to Sagada.
You can also take the bus to Baguio and go to Sagada from there. When in Baguio, ask to be brought to the central terminal where the Lizardo or GL Liner buses to Sagada are. Travel time takes about 6 hours. Bring something to do in case you get bored looking at the seemingly-endless view of mountains, terraces and wild flowers and lush trees. Bring knick-knacks in case you get hungry between stop-overs, though the bus stops every two hours between Baguio and Sagada.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE
Hire a guide! Not only will it be very convenient for you, it will also help the locals and encourage them to preserve the natural wonders in their area. When you hire transportation service, make sure to agree on a rate and the inclusions of the package price you agree upon, to avoid further inconvenience and unnecessary haggling at the end of the trip. Accredited guides can be hired at the tourist center for an affordable rate, depending on the sites you will visit.

Shout out loud at Echo Valley. Walk through town and head to Echo Valley to hear your voice (or your companion’s) echo throughout the mountains. You’ll pass a chapel and a cemetery while headed to Echo Valley so try to keep unnecessary noise to a minimum. If you have no time or energy to spare to get closer, you can also see some hanging coffins from here. It’s also a very nice area to sit and meditate. The cliff isn’t a good place to goof around, as there have already been numerous accidents and two fatalities in this area.

Some hanging coffins and Echo Valley

Go spelunking at the Sumaguing Cave (and the rest of the cave system). Stretch well and be prepared to get wet as in Sumaguing, your limbs will be challenged, you might slip a little, get wet with sweat or get soaked in ice-cold water. The temperature inside the cave is low enough for you to see your breath. Our guide Joy (yes, a man given a woman’s name) gave us an amusing and funny tour and was very helpful whilst giving us challenging routes from time to time. Do make sure that you don’t leave any of your group members behind, as well as ensure everyone’s safety first before proceeding forward. The only light source inside the cave will be the guide’s gas lamp and your headlamps (that is if you brought). This is why everyone must stay close to each other and be ready to assist each other should anything untoward happen.

Above: Two photos of the sunrise at Kiltepan

The Sagada Crew including Kuya Jun our driver/tour guide (in red)

Witness the insanely beautiful Kiltepan sunrise. I’ve only been able to watch the sun rise once in my life and that happened in Bolabog in Boracay. So when I found out that there’s a perfect spot for watching the sun rise in Sagada, I jumped at the opportunity. We left the homestay at around 4:30 in the morning. Kiltepan is about 5 to 15 minutes from the town proper, depending on what you’re riding to get there. Seeing the sun rise above the clouds below me was one of the most incredible experiences ever. The view of the sun slowly giving light to show the river of clouds between the peaks of the mountains is indeed astonishing.

Full shot of Big Falls

See the Big Falls. Stretch well, especially your legs as the walk down to the Big Falls and the hike up will take you about 4 hours total. The Bomod-ok Falls or more popularly know as the Big Falls is “big” in relation to the “small” falls in Bokong. It is 200 feet high and best seen when there has been some rain a few days before heading there. We were very lucky that there was enough rainfall for the falls to have “enough water”, without making the paths slippery and muddy. The best route to take going down is through Aguid then hike back up taking the Banga-an trail. It would be very useful to ask your guide this so you see and appreciate both routes. Don’t forget to bring an extra shirt, a hat, sunscreen, lots of water, water protection for your gadgets, and swimwear if you’re brave enough to take a dip or swim in the über cold small pool at the foot of the waterfall.

Lake Danum, Ganduyan Museum and Mt. Ampacao are some of the sights I haven’t been to. Thankfully, I have “enough” reason to go back.

WHERE TO EAT
Yoghurt House – The Yoghurt House is very popular for their fresh yoghurt and meals. Our group tried a variety of items, but my favorite has to be the vegetable pasta with eggplants, zucchini and bell peppers. It was very interesting to my palate. Their rice toppings and set meals are also hits.
The Log Cabin – The Log Cabin is a very cozy and intimate place good for couples or small families to dine. They were the most expensive option for meals in Sagada in 2011. You can read up more on our dinner at the Log Cabin at Ate D.B.’s blog.
Masferré’s – At the time we went, they weren’t serving anything out of the ordinary. It’s probably better during the peak season when they bake their own bread, etc. It was just interesting to dine there as the walls are adorned with interesting, eye-catching photographs Eduardo Masferré (People Of The Philippine Cordillera, Photographs 1934-1956) took of the Cordilleras and its people at a time when the people of the Cordilleras were very wary of outsiders.
Strawberry Café – We kept walking past Strawberry Café until that morning we came from Kiltepan. We all went in to try and we were very surprised at how incredibly comforting their porridge (arrozcaldo) was. Their chicken noodle soup (mami) was also very good. We also ordered fresh strawberry shake and yoghurt, which in our opinion, makes this joint better than Yoghurt House. Even Ate D.B. says so here! They use strawberries fresh from their own backyard. When you get the chance, head to Strawberry Café and decide for yourself.
The Co-Op for their Pies – The Co-Op Pie is a classic Sagada favorite for some. A fresh batch is baked every day and stocks are limited so best if you go early in the afternoon or make a reservation in advance.Etag and Mountain Tea! Etag is smoked meat, similar to jerky, and is indigenous to Sagada. We were also able to try the tea from the market. It was so cheap at just PhP 10.00 per pack. One pack can probably make about 80 to 100 cups of tea. It’s light and we found that it’s very good to use in making freshly-brewed iced tea and can help in regulating bowel movement.
Try Civet Coffee. That is if you’re brave enough. Read more on this here. A known manufacturer and distributor of Civet coffee in the Philippines and abroad is Arengga Coffee Alamid.
Try Pinikpikan. This is a local delicacy comprised on chicken beaten with a stick so that the blood stays in the bones and gives a distinct taste to the broth. This is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

The view from Sagada Homestay

WHERE WE STAYED
Sagada Homestay – They are also known as Karen Homestay because the owner’s name is Karen. They have a couple of rooms in the second floor of their house for guests with a common bathroom down the hallway. They also have a few small houses that groups of 4 and up can rent. One of the houses also has a kitchen so you can opt to cook. If not, you can eat out or request Ate Karen to prepare your meals.
Though, more popular accommodations are St. Joseph Resthouse and the more posh Rock Inn, which we haven’t tried yet. If you have, let me know how you found it.

It may be useful to know:
Outfit and weather protection – Make sure you bring clothing options that vary from cold weather clothing to hot weather clothing and rainy weather clothing. When we were there, it was hot during late morning until early afternoon, raining late afternoon and chilly in the evening. Also best to bring small towels, sunblock, hats, extra clothing and comfortable footwear when going on treks.

Public display of affection is frowned-upon by the locals, especially the elders in Sagada, as men are expected to be warriors and not show any sign of affection. Women on the other hand are expected to be reserved, almost aloof. Don’t get me wrong – people in Sagada are very friendly and helpful. However, just like in all places and cultures, there are certain local practices, beliefs, and teachings that we must respect and abide.

Photo taken at the rice paddies in Banga-an

Our Bontoc Stop-Over and Halsema Highway

Bontoc is the first town in the Mountain Province from Ifugao. The town of 
Bontoc is a less popular destination compared to Banaue and Sagada. However, should you be interested to stay in this town, you’ll be interested to know that there are guides you can hire to show you around, as the tribes in Bontoc are still generally cautious of tourists, especially foreigners.

The Bay-yo Terraces from the viewpoint along Halsema Highway

HOW WE GOT THERE

From Banaue or Sagada, Bontoc is about 1.5 to 2 hours away. We took a van from Banaue, had a toilet stopover in Bontoc en route to Sagada.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE

Stop at the Bay-yo Viewpoint. The Bay-yo Terraces is probably my favorite. Can you see why?
Stop at the Bontoc Museum. There are traditional items like clothing, ancestral weapons for headhunting, agricultural items and photos of the killings the ancestors did when foreign missionaries tried to preach to the tribes. There are also a couple of photos displayed which were taken by Mas Ferré.

View from Halsema Highway

HALSEMA HIGHWAY

Halsema Highway is the 240-kilometer road that connects Baguio to Sagada until Bontoc. It is the highest highway in the entire Philippines at 2,255 meters above sea level. It is named after the Former Mayor of Baguio Julius Halsema who opened the highway in the 1930s. The views are awesome in most parts and gets interesting when you get to see the lives the locals live. It can also get scary as most parts of the highway have only two lanes and no railings making it very possible for the vehicles to drop down the cliffs.

Some flowers at the Bontoc Stopover

Blissfully Banaue

Sometimes called by locals as the "Eighth Wonder of the World", 

the Ifugao Rice Terraces begin at the base of the mountain range and 

extend several thousand feet upwards. 

Two of the terrace clusters in Banaue, namely Bangaan and Batad, 

are part of the UNESCO World Heritage inscription. 

It is said that their length, if put end to end, would encircle half of the globe. 

Built 2,000 years ago, the rice terraces manifest the engineering skill and 

ingenuity of the sturdy Ifugaos. They are irrigated by means of mountain 
streams and springs that have been tapped and
channeled into canals that run downhill through the rice terraces. 

(From Wikipedia)

One of the indigenous people in the Batad Viewpoint 

HOW WE GOT THERE

We took the one and only trip of Florida Bus Lines from their Manila station with a PhP450.00 fare. We left at approximately 10:30 pm and arrived in Banaue at 6:30 am. The trip was relatively pleasant, with occasional stops for toilet breaks and a quick cup of coffee. You can also try Ohayami Trans which serves the same route during peak season.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE

Hire a guide! Not only will it be very convenient for you, it will also help the locals and encourage them to stay. We were told that there have already been several instances when the “young ones” would rather go to Manila or Baguio and experience the city life – abandoning their culture and practices. By showing them that their culture and heritage is precious enough, we help them realize that their practices are worth learning and keeping alive. When you hire a guide and/or transportation service, make sure to agree on a rate and the inclusions of the package price you agree upon, to avoid further inconvenience and unnecessary haggling at the end of the trip.

Hap-ao Terraces at Hungduan

See the various rice terraces in the several municipalities in the Ifugao Province (Lagawe, Hungduan, Banaue, etc.) The terraces you will be able to see will depend on the season you will go. When we went, the ones we saw “green” were Ba-ang and Hap-ao in Hungduan town and Bay-yo in Bontoc. The reason behind this is that they alternate the planting season for the areas so that in essence, they have rice available for harvest all year round. They also let the soil rest by planting other crops like sweet potatoes, vegetables, or not plant at all so the soil can replenish its minerals.

Try riding the wooden bike/scooter. The wooden bikes are quite amusing as the kids still use them for fun. Every April, during the Imbayah Festival, they have a downhill race using these wooden scooters.

Some items that can be found in the native house

See or even stay in a native house. Have your guide explain to you why the house is structured the way it is and you’ll realize how agriculture plays a huge and crucial part in their lives, even influencing how their homes are structured. Be amazed at the skulls and ancient weaponry used by their elders who take pride in being warriors of their land and family.

Watch the cultural show at the Banaue Hotel. Be entertained and educated on how the natives go on about their daily lives and milestones in their lives including birth, marriage, death and other celebrations in their lives.

Buy wooden souvenirs carved by the indigenous people. Buy interesting sculptures and carvings made by locals. Each design has a meaning and story so try to see which one you can relate best to or what design appeals to you the most.

Buy locally weaved items. The patterns of their weaving are generally different from the weaving of the rest of the tribes throughout the country. The patterns differ from each tribe and the number of colors used in the weave defines the position or standing of the person in the tribe. These would be nice to bring home as souvenirs for yourself or to bring home to relatives and friends.

Have lunch at People’s Lodge. The food isn’t anything special or spectacular, but the view is! Have Chicken rice for lunch while soaking-in the spectacular view of the terraces.

View from our room

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at the Banaue Hotel, which is government-owned and managed by the Philippine Tourism Authority, an agency under the Department of Tourism. The hotel is pretty old and so are the rooms. However, it is relatively well kept and facilities are basic but good enough, considering how far out in the mountains it is.

If you want to go backpacker style, you can also stay at People’s Lodge where they have rooms at very affordable rates.

There is generally not much to see in Banaue, except for the rice terraces and some waterfalls we weren't able to see. However, given the grandeur and how marvelous the construction of the terraces are, the totality of the Ifugao Rice Terraces is definitely one of the sites you must see in your lifetime. Merely trying to imagine how their ancestors were able to carve out the terraces out of the mountains will make jaws drop and generate more than enough oohs, aahs, wows, and other exclamatory expressions. After all, these weren't enlisted as UNESCO World Heritage Sites for nothing, right?

The Banaue Rice Terraces

Pundaquit's Charm

The name Pundaquit (poon-da-kit) I think is very fitting for the place, mainly because it is really nakaka-akit or charming. See, "akit" is synonymous to charm, or to fascinate, captivate and other similar words you can think of.  I hope you can see for yourself why I can say that the place is such. With this place so near, who can resist?

The view as you approach Nagsasa Cove. Simply breathtaking!

HOW WE GOT THERE

Zambales, specifically Olongapo city, is about 3 hours away from Manila. Pundaquit is a seemingly quiet and sleepy baranggay in the town of San Antonio, a fishing town about 30 minutes to an hour's drive away from Olongapo.

We took a car to get there, via the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), taking the San Fernando exit towards the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX) towards SBMA to Olongapo.

My dad knew his way to Olongapo and my sister’s boyfriend knew his way around so we didn’t have much of a difficulty finding our way to San Antonio. However, if it’s your first time, best to ask around for directions to Olongapo and San Antonio. Locals are generally helpful; or better yet, hire a tricycle driver to take you to your resort of choice.

You can also take the public bus. Victory Liner has trips to Sta. Cruz and Iba, Zambales, which you can take. Just make sure to tell the bus conductor you will get down at San Antonio town proper (think City Hall, Public Market, etc.). You can hire a tricycle to take you to your resort for as low as PhP 50 to as much as PhP 150, depending on the number of passengers and where your resort is.

WHAT TO DO THERE

Surf or body/boogie board! The town of San Antonio is very well known as a surf spot or jump-off point to other surf spots in the vicinity. You can ask around for board rentals or lessons form locals. This activity of course is dependent on the weather conditions. Best to go during the rainy season, possibly between months of July 'til November.

Go Camping. With Nagsasa Cove and Anawangin Cove just a boat ride away, who can resist the charm and adventure of camping? There are local guides who can assist and join you for a minimal fee. Make sure to agree on the rate and terms for the guide and the boat that will be bringing you to and from the camp spot before departing. Should you decide to just have a boatman bring you to the camp sites, make sure you agree on a pick-up time and get the boatman’s number for any emergency. Do not forget to bring enough food and water, plus do the earth a favor - bring back with you whatever it is that you bring to you when you go camping. Do not leave trash behind.

Seeing Capones and Camara Islands from Pundaquit

Island-hop to Camara and Capones Islands. These can be seen from the shorelines of Pundaquit and can be reached by boat. You can spend the day there or even camp if you’re brave enough to risk the tide and winds. You can ask your resort or hotel for boat rentals they trust and can endorse just to be sure.

Trek to the waterfalls or coves. If you’re into trekking or climbing, then this is the activity for you. You can trek to the Pundaquit Falls or to Anawangin Cove. Just make sure to have a local guide with you should anything unexpected happens.

Anawangin Cove

WHAT TO SEE

Anawangin Cove is possibly the most popular of the attractions in San Antonio. With the sea, the white sand, the pine tree-lined shore, and the beautiful mountain range as backdrop, who wouldn’t find this place beautiful? You can trek going there or take a boat ride, which will take about 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the water and weather condition. When we went, we found out that the area is already privately owned. However, it's still open for visitors for a minimal fee for the day. There are still camping areas for those who wish to stay overnight and some upgraded facilities for those who may not be able to do potty training in the woods.

Where freshwater meets saltwater at Nagsasa Cove

Nagsasa Cove is more secluded compared to Anawangin as it is farther. It will take you about 45 minutes to 1 hour to get there. The sand is light gray, unlike Anawangin, but the charm of the cove lies in its being secluded. The views are simply breathtaking. In this area is also the point where fresh water (of the mountains) meets saltwater (of the ocean) so the water temperature can get quite interesting in some parts. You can stay here and camp out for a minimal fee. They also have put up toilets for those who are not so comfortable going all out in the camping experience.

The Lighthouse at Capones Island was built in the 1800s and serves as a guide for vessels headed towards Subic Bay (or to farther Corregidor and Manila Bay). Another rather interesting sight.

The Coffee Shop's Jumbo Taco

WHERE TO STAY and EAT

We were only in Pundaquit for two whole days, mostly lounging around in front of our cottage and in Nagsasa, taking in the serenity and the view. Thus, we didn’t get to explore much. We stayed at Sam’s Resort (0919-7033597), a small family-run business. They have about 10 rooms, with 3 to 4 of those in native cottages. Ate Arlene and the rest of the family were very accommodating, and cooked for us at a very reasonable price. With San Antonio being a fishing town, make sure you sample the fresh seafood from the area. 

Capones Vista Resort's rooms facing the pool

You can also opt to stay at Capones Vista Resort or Punta de Uian, more upscale options compared to the smaller resorts in the area.

Make sure to drop by The Coffee Shop at Barrio Barretto in Olongapo City. It’s actually a restaurant and hotel, but they’re known for their mean tacos. One order can be good enough for two, but considering the trip, an order can feed a hungry soul.

C' Italian Dining: Home of the Panizza

On our way home, we also stopped at C’ Italian Dining over at the Perimeter Road in Angeles City (near the Friendship Highway). We’ve heard and read so many good things about it and they were saying it’s where the panizza originated. Heck, even Bonnie Bailey ate there. So we felt we had to try it for ourselves. The ambience was very warm and intriguing that you’ll want to look around. We ordered several kinds of soup and 2 kinds of panizza. We liked the overall experience of the ambience plus the food, though I wouldn’t exactly say we’d yearn to going back.

We weren't able to see Pundaquit Falls, Sinlanguin and Talisayin Coves. Soon, we hope to be able to go back and experience these places.

This 5-year old boy, only standing about three and a half feet in height amazed us as he ripped waves that afternoon.

The Archives: Vigan

I am republishing my post on our several trips to Vigan starting 2008, taken from my old blog. Ilocos in general is a beautiful province, and Vigan is one of the most popular cities in the region. We love going to the north to see and experience Vigan and the surrounding sights and cities. We go for work, liesure, and even bring friends around. That's how much we love the place and I'm sure you will too, if you get to experience Vigan the way we do.

A deer grazing in Baluarte and a run-down building along Calle Crisologo

HOW WE GOT THERE

For the first three trips, we took the bus, specifically Partas to Vigan. One can board either from the Cubao/Araneta Terminal or the Pasay Terminal (along Tramo). Other bus lines regularly plying the route is Viron, Fariñas Trans and Florida. The trip takes about 7-10 or more hours, depending on your time of travel and the traffic. Best to ravel in the evening as you can sleep during the entire trip and the trip generally takes faster. You can also take a plane to Laoag, Ilocos Norte then take the road trip to Vigan for about 1-2 hours. Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines regularly has flights to Laoag.

You can also drive all 410 kilometers to Ilocos, of course. Just take North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), then take SCTEX, and exit through Hacienda Luisita. Take the McArthur Highway, passing Tarlac, Pangasinan, La Union and eventually Ilocos Sur.

WHAT TO DO THERE

Ride the Kalesa! The kalesa is a horse-drawn carriage, the most common, authentic way to tour around the city. Take advantage of the "old world" feel and take your time to look around. The kalesa ride is at 150 per hour and it will take you about 2 hours to go around, without stopping at museums (because museums take more time). I suggest that you take the kalesa, go to landmarks, then just take note which museum or landmark you want to go back to, then just take a tricycle going back.

Walk around. Vigan, being a relatively small city, is fairly easy to figure out in terms of roads, places where you can eat, shop, etc. The main attraction in Vigan, Crisologo Street, is a good 5-10 minute walk.

Smoke native tobacco. That is if you do smoke. The Ilocos region is know for producing tobacco. They sell these locally grown and rolled tobaccos for 5-10 pesos each, depending on the quality. And because tobaccos only require you to puff and exhale (as opposed to cigarettes which you have to inhale), they are, as some people say, the lesser evil with a better after-taste.

For night owls, visit Legacy Superclub. It’s the only one of its kind in Ilocos Sur, and possibly the entire region. The vibe is relaxed during weekdays, but the energy is definitely higher during weekends.

The St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral

WHAT TO SEE

Vigan Cathedral - The St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral is right beside Plaza Burgos and fronting Plaza Salcedo. It's a simple yet nice, old church. There are also several smaller churches/chapels but the Cathedral is the one we always visit.

Son of Fidel Go giving tourists a demo 

Ruby Pottery - Home and shop of the National Folk Artist Award recipient Fidel Go. This is where Burnay or clay jars, pots, and everything in between are made. I had the priviledge of meeting this kind and very accomodating man during one of our trips there, and gamely allowed us to try pottery-making ourselves.

Rowilda's or Cristy's Abel Iloko - Be amazed as they demonstrate how the yards and yards of the Abel Iloko is made. I saw for myself how thousands of strands of thread are needed and weaved, making the famous habing Iloko runners, blankets, etc.

Museums - For a dose of history, you can visit several museums like the Crisologo Museum, Burgos Museum and the Syquia Mansion for a minimal fee.

Plaza Burgos - Named after Padre Jose Burgos, one of the three martyrs (GomBurZa) who were beheaded. This is where the Vigan Cathedral Belfry is erected and also where the stalls serving local delicacies like the sinanglao and empanada are located.
Plaza Salcedo - Named after the Spanish conquistador who established settlement in Vigan, making it one of the largest Spanish settlements in the country. The plaza also faces the Arzobispado (Archbishop's Palace), the Provincial Capitol, the Municipal Hall and other key offices.

Bantay Bell Tower - The name of the tower is actually St. Agustine's Bell Tower and located in the town of Bantay, the “gateway to Vigan. They just ask you to give a donation to help maintain the cleanliness of the bell tower which once served as location for a couple of movies including Panday (which starred the late Fernando Poe, Jr.).

A view of Baluarte Zoo/Mini Farm

Baluarte - Home and "playground" of Gov. Chavit Singson and his hundreds of pets. It's really having his own zoo in his backyard. With the addition of life-size dinosaur models! Upon getting a view from the top, I realize that the developed area is just a fraction of the entire property. What I love about this place is that it's free for all, even the pony rides and the animal shows. You can pet several animals including birds, ponies, and more. I haven't seen tigers so healthy, to the point of being obese, proving that the animals here are very well-fed.

Antiques and not-so-antiques on display along Calle Crislogo

Calle Crisologo - Anything antique (even old vinyl records and magazines), paintings, souvenirs, and some fairly odd items. Also a UNESCO world heritage site, this is the main attraction in Vigan as this is where the old houses are and the street is made of cobblestone. Very nice, especially in the evening.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT:

Plaza Burgos - Where the empanadas can be found. Haha! Get the special empanada for only 35 pesos. Yum! This makes the long trip worth it! Haha! You can also find in the carinderias here the "twisted" Ilokano version of the bulalo or papaitan, the sinanglao, with the vinegar and onions. Yum!

Cafe Leona - Along Calle Crisologo is Cafe Leona. The building is what used to be the house of Leona Florentino, a feminist poet. They have a wide variety of dishes, but you must try the pinakbet pizza!
Bigaa Restaurant at Vigan Plaza Hotel - I find that most hotel restaurants serve so-so, bland food. If you agree, then make this an exception. Food at Bigaa is so good, sometimes we don't bother to leave the hotel anymore, especially is we want to relax. My favorites are their Guardia Sibil, Bagnet con Bagoong, Japanese Sinigang, Mud Pie and Turon Cigars. Yum!

Ask around for: Lomo-lomo (only available early in the a.m, for those who came from a drinking session), puki-puki (eggplant, really good), dinengdeng, dinakdakan (sisig-like), dinuydoy, and of course, the Vigan longganisa and Bagnet (you can buy from the palengke or ask around).

Our favorite empanada maker at one of the stalls in Plaza Burgos

The Vigan longganisa is mainly garlic-y compared to the longganisa from other provinces. I was old the way locals cook it is they poke the casing/skin, then boil it in a little water until the water dries up and the oil from the longganisa comes out. Then fry the longganisa in its own oil. Must have with sukang Iloko.

The Bagnet is basically pork (best if belly) cooked in the following order: boiled in spices, dried, fried, dried, and fried again. Sounds pretty long, huh? You got that right! The techniques and process for cooking depends per home/kitchen/cook of course, with some taking days to prepare. A kilo of raw pork would yield only 1/3 to 1/2 kilo of bagnet. The Bagnet con Bagoong at Café Bigaa (Vigan Plaza Hotel) is a hands-down winner for me.

Cornick - The cornick or chichacorn is corn kernels, sun-dried and fried to crunchy goodness. Some stalls sell the flavored variety. I personally like the spicy and cheese flavored ones.

Tongson Royal Bibingka – Bibingka is mainly glutinous rice, grinded and cooked depending on the techniques of each maker. I asked around and found out that the original seller of the bibingka is Tongson’s, the one right beside Vigan Plaza Hotel. You can also try Marsha’s, which is quite popular especially because they have a wider variety of items to offer.

Mom's Bolero: glutinous rice between sponge cake

WHAT TO BRING HOME:

The usual requests are bagnet, longganisa, cornick, abel Iloko, sukang Iloko (native vinegar) and native garlic or native onions (shallots). You can buy all these (along with other souvenirs) either at the market (palengke) or along Calle Crisologo. If you can, ask your hotel front desk if they can hook you up with the Vigan embutido or Mom’s Bolero. I’m salivating already just thinking about it.

WHERE TO STAY:

Vigan Plaza Hotel - I highly recommend this hotel. It's very rustic yet chic and modern. The rooms are very spacious, staff are courteous, and the food at the hotel restaurant Bigaa is great! Must try their Chokolate de Vigan! Yum!

Grandpa's Inn - It's your quaint little backpacker hotel. Don't be fooled by the looks of this inn. Rooms are affordable, and really nice and homey. The service is very good, the food is great, and they have a bar/coffee shop too. Must try the hotel restaurant’s Dinamita, deep-fried green finger chili stuffed with cheese!

I pretty have a lot more to share on Vigan and other cities in Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte. I will be posting more entries on Vigan and the other places as we discover more. Will surely keep you informed! Much love!

The thread for Abel Iloko just about ready to be loaded into the machine.

The Archives: Iloilo

I am republishing my post on our several trips to Iloilo starting last 2008, taken from my old blog. We were invited to go to Iloilo as my husband participated in an event for the Dinagyang Festival and a couple of other events. We are definitely looking forward to seeing more of the province and its neighboring provinces.

Some of the many faces at the Dinagyang Festival, honoring Sto. Niño

HOW WE GOT THERE

We got there by plane, landing at the Iloilo International Airport, which was very nice. Though one can take the bus from Cubao or Alabang, and the ro-ro from Batangas to Mindoro, then Caticlan, then road trip to Iloilo. Bus lines such as Philtranco, Alps, Ceres and Dimple Star regularly ply this route.

WHAT TO DO THERE

See and experience the Dinagyang Festival - Held on the fourth Sunday of January, various tribes dance and battle it out in a competition and parade around the city. We walked around the city while watching the parade. See genuine smiles! Photo op!

Schedule a side trip to Guimaras! - With the Island only 15 minutes away, who can resist?
                                         

The Miag-ao Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

WHAT TO SEE:

Churches - There is a church/Cathedral for almost every district in Iloilo, most of them having their own remarkable history. Also, if you have the time and budget, take the road trip to town of Miag-ao to see the Miag-ao Church, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The   Miag-ao Church is made of brick, put together with egg whites and limestones. Cool, huh? You'll also pass by a couple of nice churches and University of the Philippines Visayas campus en route to Miag-ao.

Jaro Belfry - the bell tower infront of the Jaro Cathedral. It is one of the few standalone bell towers in our country.

The Arroyo Fountain

J.M. Basa St. and "Old Downtown" - Very nice old buildings, reminiscent of the Spanish colonial era. We were told that the area used to be the commercial district, similar to what Escolta was in Manila. We were also told that the elite of Iloilo used to live in the area and first casino in Iloilo was there (not implying that's directly related information. Hehe!).

The Obelisk Marker and the Arroyo Fountain - Both are in the city, relatively walking distance from each other. The Obelisk Marker is situated in Plazoleta, which is where the Ilonggos stage rallies from the time of the People Power Revolution in 1986 until today. The Arroyo Fountain, named after Frmr. Sen. Jose Maria Arroyo, it serves as the zero marker for the city, like Manila's Rizal Park.

The Old Harbor - Just nice to see for its old-world feel.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT:

Deco's and Ted's for the La Paz Batchoy - There are plenty of outlets around the city, and I strongly suggest you try both Deco's and Ted's to compare an find out which suits your taste better. Make sure you grab puto Manapla, too. But if you really want the authentic batchoy, go to the La Paz market and get a serving there. Try all three if you can, just for the sake of comparison. We did! Haha!

La Paz Batchoy and Puto manapla! Yum!

Breakthrough – Get your seafood fix! You can choose what you like and have it cooked the way you want, matched with the very relaxing breeze and ambience music that is the ocean.

Tatoy’s Manukan – They serve good native chicken inasal (barbecued chicken) and served seafood as well, at very affordable prices.
Allan's - Located in Oton, en route to Miag-ao. We had hito (catfish), kinilaw (ceviche) and bangus (milkfish) and ended up with a very small price to pay for all we ate. With a food trip this cheap, we don't complain and just take advantage!
Doming's - A favorite of regular travellers to Miag-ao and students at the University of the Philippines (case in point our friend Ana), they serve oysters at an insanely affordable price of just PhP20.00 for a small basin. You can have yours either blanched or grilled.

Fresh oysters by the basin!

Bourbon Street, Smallville - Good ribs, tapa, etc. and they also have a DJ playing every night so it's also a good place to hang-out.

Toping's, Leganes - One of the two good places where you can get a sumptuous feast of seafood. Leganes is about 30 minutes from the city proper, accessible by jeep and/or taxi.

Roberto's - This is located in the "Chinatown" of Iloilo, near Iznart. If you're lucky, you must try their Queen siopao - bacon, chinese sausage, chicken pork adobo and egg all in one platito-sized siopao.

WHAT TO BRING HOME:

What else but goodies from Biscocho House (butterscotch, biscocho, toasted mamon, etc.)! They have branches all over so no need to worry.

WHERE TO STAY:

We've stayed at The Summerhouse (Iloilo Midtown Hotel), Days Hotel, and Century 21 Hotel. All have pretty good rooms and rates. And all are walking distance from SM Delgado.

Taken at Leganes, Iloilo using Vivitar UWS plastic camera

Iloilo is a very interesting place for the mind, the heart and most of all for the tummy. Anyone who's a foodie must go to Iloilo and eat to his/her heart's content.