The Great Sagada Adventure

Sagada is Kabunyan.

Kabunyan is Heaven.

Sagada IS Heaven.

Along the Banga-an trail from the Big Falls.

Sagada is heaven for those who enjoy the outdoors and the adventures that come with it, for those who love cool to chilly weather, for those who love fresh blueberry or strawberry yoghurt, for those who like mysterious, enchanting places, and for those who just love to relax and absorb the peace and silence.

A farmer form Banga-an

HOW WE GOT THERE:
The first time we went to Sagada, we rented the van, which took us around Banaue and Bontoc to take us to Sagada. I believe you can also take public transport from Banaue to Bontoc, then Bontoc to Sagada.
You can also take the bus to Baguio and go to Sagada from there. When in Baguio, ask to be brought to the central terminal where the Lizardo or GL Liner buses to Sagada are. Travel time takes about 6 hours. Bring something to do in case you get bored looking at the seemingly-endless view of mountains, terraces and wild flowers and lush trees. Bring knick-knacks in case you get hungry between stop-overs, though the bus stops every two hours between Baguio and Sagada.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE
Hire a guide! Not only will it be very convenient for you, it will also help the locals and encourage them to preserve the natural wonders in their area. When you hire transportation service, make sure to agree on a rate and the inclusions of the package price you agree upon, to avoid further inconvenience and unnecessary haggling at the end of the trip. Accredited guides can be hired at the tourist center for an affordable rate, depending on the sites you will visit.

Shout out loud at Echo Valley. Walk through town and head to Echo Valley to hear your voice (or your companion’s) echo throughout the mountains. You’ll pass a chapel and a cemetery while headed to Echo Valley so try to keep unnecessary noise to a minimum. If you have no time or energy to spare to get closer, you can also see some hanging coffins from here. It’s also a very nice area to sit and meditate. The cliff isn’t a good place to goof around, as there have already been numerous accidents and two fatalities in this area.

Some hanging coffins and Echo Valley

Go spelunking at the Sumaguing Cave (and the rest of the cave system). Stretch well and be prepared to get wet as in Sumaguing, your limbs will be challenged, you might slip a little, get wet with sweat or get soaked in ice-cold water. The temperature inside the cave is low enough for you to see your breath. Our guide Joy (yes, a man given a woman’s name) gave us an amusing and funny tour and was very helpful whilst giving us challenging routes from time to time. Do make sure that you don’t leave any of your group members behind, as well as ensure everyone’s safety first before proceeding forward. The only light source inside the cave will be the guide’s gas lamp and your headlamps (that is if you brought). This is why everyone must stay close to each other and be ready to assist each other should anything untoward happen.

Above: Two photos of the sunrise at Kiltepan

The Sagada Crew including Kuya Jun our driver/tour guide (in red)

Witness the insanely beautiful Kiltepan sunrise. I’ve only been able to watch the sun rise once in my life and that happened in Bolabog in Boracay. So when I found out that there’s a perfect spot for watching the sun rise in Sagada, I jumped at the opportunity. We left the homestay at around 4:30 in the morning. Kiltepan is about 5 to 15 minutes from the town proper, depending on what you’re riding to get there. Seeing the sun rise above the clouds below me was one of the most incredible experiences ever. The view of the sun slowly giving light to show the river of clouds between the peaks of the mountains is indeed astonishing.

Full shot of Big Falls

See the Big Falls. Stretch well, especially your legs as the walk down to the Big Falls and the hike up will take you about 4 hours total. The Bomod-ok Falls or more popularly know as the Big Falls is “big” in relation to the “small” falls in Bokong. It is 200 feet high and best seen when there has been some rain a few days before heading there. We were very lucky that there was enough rainfall for the falls to have “enough water”, without making the paths slippery and muddy. The best route to take going down is through Aguid then hike back up taking the Banga-an trail. It would be very useful to ask your guide this so you see and appreciate both routes. Don’t forget to bring an extra shirt, a hat, sunscreen, lots of water, water protection for your gadgets, and swimwear if you’re brave enough to take a dip or swim in the über cold small pool at the foot of the waterfall.

Lake Danum, Ganduyan Museum and Mt. Ampacao are some of the sights I haven’t been to. Thankfully, I have “enough” reason to go back.

WHERE TO EAT
Yoghurt House – The Yoghurt House is very popular for their fresh yoghurt and meals. Our group tried a variety of items, but my favorite has to be the vegetable pasta with eggplants, zucchini and bell peppers. It was very interesting to my palate. Their rice toppings and set meals are also hits.
The Log Cabin – The Log Cabin is a very cozy and intimate place good for couples or small families to dine. They were the most expensive option for meals in Sagada in 2011. You can read up more on our dinner at the Log Cabin at Ate D.B.’s blog.
Masferré’s – At the time we went, they weren’t serving anything out of the ordinary. It’s probably better during the peak season when they bake their own bread, etc. It was just interesting to dine there as the walls are adorned with interesting, eye-catching photographs Eduardo Masferré (People Of The Philippine Cordillera, Photographs 1934-1956) took of the Cordilleras and its people at a time when the people of the Cordilleras were very wary of outsiders.
Strawberry Café – We kept walking past Strawberry Café until that morning we came from Kiltepan. We all went in to try and we were very surprised at how incredibly comforting their porridge (arrozcaldo) was. Their chicken noodle soup (mami) was also very good. We also ordered fresh strawberry shake and yoghurt, which in our opinion, makes this joint better than Yoghurt House. Even Ate D.B. says so here! They use strawberries fresh from their own backyard. When you get the chance, head to Strawberry Café and decide for yourself.
The Co-Op for their Pies – The Co-Op Pie is a classic Sagada favorite for some. A fresh batch is baked every day and stocks are limited so best if you go early in the afternoon or make a reservation in advance.Etag and Mountain Tea! Etag is smoked meat, similar to jerky, and is indigenous to Sagada. We were also able to try the tea from the market. It was so cheap at just PhP 10.00 per pack. One pack can probably make about 80 to 100 cups of tea. It’s light and we found that it’s very good to use in making freshly-brewed iced tea and can help in regulating bowel movement.
Try Civet Coffee. That is if you’re brave enough. Read more on this here. A known manufacturer and distributor of Civet coffee in the Philippines and abroad is Arengga Coffee Alamid.
Try Pinikpikan. This is a local delicacy comprised on chicken beaten with a stick so that the blood stays in the bones and gives a distinct taste to the broth. This is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

The view from Sagada Homestay

WHERE WE STAYED
Sagada Homestay – They are also known as Karen Homestay because the owner’s name is Karen. They have a couple of rooms in the second floor of their house for guests with a common bathroom down the hallway. They also have a few small houses that groups of 4 and up can rent. One of the houses also has a kitchen so you can opt to cook. If not, you can eat out or request Ate Karen to prepare your meals.
Though, more popular accommodations are St. Joseph Resthouse and the more posh Rock Inn, which we haven’t tried yet. If you have, let me know how you found it.

It may be useful to know:
Outfit and weather protection – Make sure you bring clothing options that vary from cold weather clothing to hot weather clothing and rainy weather clothing. When we were there, it was hot during late morning until early afternoon, raining late afternoon and chilly in the evening. Also best to bring small towels, sunblock, hats, extra clothing and comfortable footwear when going on treks.

Public display of affection is frowned-upon by the locals, especially the elders in Sagada, as men are expected to be warriors and not show any sign of affection. Women on the other hand are expected to be reserved, almost aloof. Don’t get me wrong – people in Sagada are very friendly and helpful. However, just like in all places and cultures, there are certain local practices, beliefs, and teachings that we must respect and abide.

Photo taken at the rice paddies in Banga-an

Our Bontoc Stop-Over and Halsema Highway

Bontoc is the first town in the Mountain Province from Ifugao. The town of 
Bontoc is a less popular destination compared to Banaue and Sagada. However, should you be interested to stay in this town, you’ll be interested to know that there are guides you can hire to show you around, as the tribes in Bontoc are still generally cautious of tourists, especially foreigners.

The Bay-yo Terraces from the viewpoint along Halsema Highway

HOW WE GOT THERE

From Banaue or Sagada, Bontoc is about 1.5 to 2 hours away. We took a van from Banaue, had a toilet stopover in Bontoc en route to Sagada.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE

Stop at the Bay-yo Viewpoint. The Bay-yo Terraces is probably my favorite. Can you see why?
Stop at the Bontoc Museum. There are traditional items like clothing, ancestral weapons for headhunting, agricultural items and photos of the killings the ancestors did when foreign missionaries tried to preach to the tribes. There are also a couple of photos displayed which were taken by Mas Ferré.

View from Halsema Highway

HALSEMA HIGHWAY

Halsema Highway is the 240-kilometer road that connects Baguio to Sagada until Bontoc. It is the highest highway in the entire Philippines at 2,255 meters above sea level. It is named after the Former Mayor of Baguio Julius Halsema who opened the highway in the 1930s. The views are awesome in most parts and gets interesting when you get to see the lives the locals live. It can also get scary as most parts of the highway have only two lanes and no railings making it very possible for the vehicles to drop down the cliffs.

Some flowers at the Bontoc Stopover

Blissfully Banaue

Sometimes called by locals as the "Eighth Wonder of the World", 

the Ifugao Rice Terraces begin at the base of the mountain range and 

extend several thousand feet upwards. 

Two of the terrace clusters in Banaue, namely Bangaan and Batad, 

are part of the UNESCO World Heritage inscription. 

It is said that their length, if put end to end, would encircle half of the globe. 

Built 2,000 years ago, the rice terraces manifest the engineering skill and 

ingenuity of the sturdy Ifugaos. They are irrigated by means of mountain 
streams and springs that have been tapped and
channeled into canals that run downhill through the rice terraces. 

(From Wikipedia)

One of the indigenous people in the Batad Viewpoint 

HOW WE GOT THERE

We took the one and only trip of Florida Bus Lines from their Manila station with a PhP450.00 fare. We left at approximately 10:30 pm and arrived in Banaue at 6:30 am. The trip was relatively pleasant, with occasional stops for toilet breaks and a quick cup of coffee. You can also try Ohayami Trans which serves the same route during peak season.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT TO SEE THERE

Hire a guide! Not only will it be very convenient for you, it will also help the locals and encourage them to stay. We were told that there have already been several instances when the “young ones” would rather go to Manila or Baguio and experience the city life – abandoning their culture and practices. By showing them that their culture and heritage is precious enough, we help them realize that their practices are worth learning and keeping alive. When you hire a guide and/or transportation service, make sure to agree on a rate and the inclusions of the package price you agree upon, to avoid further inconvenience and unnecessary haggling at the end of the trip.

Hap-ao Terraces at Hungduan

See the various rice terraces in the several municipalities in the Ifugao Province (Lagawe, Hungduan, Banaue, etc.) The terraces you will be able to see will depend on the season you will go. When we went, the ones we saw “green” were Ba-ang and Hap-ao in Hungduan town and Bay-yo in Bontoc. The reason behind this is that they alternate the planting season for the areas so that in essence, they have rice available for harvest all year round. They also let the soil rest by planting other crops like sweet potatoes, vegetables, or not plant at all so the soil can replenish its minerals.

Try riding the wooden bike/scooter. The wooden bikes are quite amusing as the kids still use them for fun. Every April, during the Imbayah Festival, they have a downhill race using these wooden scooters.

Some items that can be found in the native house

See or even stay in a native house. Have your guide explain to you why the house is structured the way it is and you’ll realize how agriculture plays a huge and crucial part in their lives, even influencing how their homes are structured. Be amazed at the skulls and ancient weaponry used by their elders who take pride in being warriors of their land and family.

Watch the cultural show at the Banaue Hotel. Be entertained and educated on how the natives go on about their daily lives and milestones in their lives including birth, marriage, death and other celebrations in their lives.

Buy wooden souvenirs carved by the indigenous people. Buy interesting sculptures and carvings made by locals. Each design has a meaning and story so try to see which one you can relate best to or what design appeals to you the most.

Buy locally weaved items. The patterns of their weaving are generally different from the weaving of the rest of the tribes throughout the country. The patterns differ from each tribe and the number of colors used in the weave defines the position or standing of the person in the tribe. These would be nice to bring home as souvenirs for yourself or to bring home to relatives and friends.

Have lunch at People’s Lodge. The food isn’t anything special or spectacular, but the view is! Have Chicken rice for lunch while soaking-in the spectacular view of the terraces.

View from our room

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at the Banaue Hotel, which is government-owned and managed by the Philippine Tourism Authority, an agency under the Department of Tourism. The hotel is pretty old and so are the rooms. However, it is relatively well kept and facilities are basic but good enough, considering how far out in the mountains it is.

If you want to go backpacker style, you can also stay at People’s Lodge where they have rooms at very affordable rates.

There is generally not much to see in Banaue, except for the rice terraces and some waterfalls we weren't able to see. However, given the grandeur and how marvelous the construction of the terraces are, the totality of the Ifugao Rice Terraces is definitely one of the sites you must see in your lifetime. Merely trying to imagine how their ancestors were able to carve out the terraces out of the mountains will make jaws drop and generate more than enough oohs, aahs, wows, and other exclamatory expressions. After all, these weren't enlisted as UNESCO World Heritage Sites for nothing, right?

The Banaue Rice Terraces