The Archives: Vigan

I am republishing my post on our several trips to Vigan starting 2008, taken from my old blog. Ilocos in general is a beautiful province, and Vigan is one of the most popular cities in the region. We love going to the north to see and experience Vigan and the surrounding sights and cities. We go for work, liesure, and even bring friends around. That's how much we love the place and I'm sure you will too, if you get to experience Vigan the way we do.

A deer grazing in Baluarte and a run-down building along Calle Crisologo

HOW WE GOT THERE

For the first three trips, we took the bus, specifically Partas to Vigan. One can board either from the Cubao/Araneta Terminal or the Pasay Terminal (along Tramo). Other bus lines regularly plying the route is Viron, Fariñas Trans and Florida. The trip takes about 7-10 or more hours, depending on your time of travel and the traffic. Best to ravel in the evening as you can sleep during the entire trip and the trip generally takes faster. You can also take a plane to Laoag, Ilocos Norte then take the road trip to Vigan for about 1-2 hours. Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines regularly has flights to Laoag.

You can also drive all 410 kilometers to Ilocos, of course. Just take North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), then take SCTEX, and exit through Hacienda Luisita. Take the McArthur Highway, passing Tarlac, Pangasinan, La Union and eventually Ilocos Sur.

WHAT TO DO THERE

Ride the Kalesa! The kalesa is a horse-drawn carriage, the most common, authentic way to tour around the city. Take advantage of the "old world" feel and take your time to look around. The kalesa ride is at 150 per hour and it will take you about 2 hours to go around, without stopping at museums (because museums take more time). I suggest that you take the kalesa, go to landmarks, then just take note which museum or landmark you want to go back to, then just take a tricycle going back.

Walk around. Vigan, being a relatively small city, is fairly easy to figure out in terms of roads, places where you can eat, shop, etc. The main attraction in Vigan, Crisologo Street, is a good 5-10 minute walk.

Smoke native tobacco. That is if you do smoke. The Ilocos region is know for producing tobacco. They sell these locally grown and rolled tobaccos for 5-10 pesos each, depending on the quality. And because tobaccos only require you to puff and exhale (as opposed to cigarettes which you have to inhale), they are, as some people say, the lesser evil with a better after-taste.

For night owls, visit Legacy Superclub. It’s the only one of its kind in Ilocos Sur, and possibly the entire region. The vibe is relaxed during weekdays, but the energy is definitely higher during weekends.

The St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral

WHAT TO SEE

Vigan Cathedral - The St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral is right beside Plaza Burgos and fronting Plaza Salcedo. It's a simple yet nice, old church. There are also several smaller churches/chapels but the Cathedral is the one we always visit.

Son of Fidel Go giving tourists a demo 

Ruby Pottery - Home and shop of the National Folk Artist Award recipient Fidel Go. This is where Burnay or clay jars, pots, and everything in between are made. I had the priviledge of meeting this kind and very accomodating man during one of our trips there, and gamely allowed us to try pottery-making ourselves.

Rowilda's or Cristy's Abel Iloko - Be amazed as they demonstrate how the yards and yards of the Abel Iloko is made. I saw for myself how thousands of strands of thread are needed and weaved, making the famous habing Iloko runners, blankets, etc.

Museums - For a dose of history, you can visit several museums like the Crisologo Museum, Burgos Museum and the Syquia Mansion for a minimal fee.

Plaza Burgos - Named after Padre Jose Burgos, one of the three martyrs (GomBurZa) who were beheaded. This is where the Vigan Cathedral Belfry is erected and also where the stalls serving local delicacies like the sinanglao and empanada are located.
Plaza Salcedo - Named after the Spanish conquistador who established settlement in Vigan, making it one of the largest Spanish settlements in the country. The plaza also faces the Arzobispado (Archbishop's Palace), the Provincial Capitol, the Municipal Hall and other key offices.

Bantay Bell Tower - The name of the tower is actually St. Agustine's Bell Tower and located in the town of Bantay, the “gateway to Vigan. They just ask you to give a donation to help maintain the cleanliness of the bell tower which once served as location for a couple of movies including Panday (which starred the late Fernando Poe, Jr.).

A view of Baluarte Zoo/Mini Farm

Baluarte - Home and "playground" of Gov. Chavit Singson and his hundreds of pets. It's really having his own zoo in his backyard. With the addition of life-size dinosaur models! Upon getting a view from the top, I realize that the developed area is just a fraction of the entire property. What I love about this place is that it's free for all, even the pony rides and the animal shows. You can pet several animals including birds, ponies, and more. I haven't seen tigers so healthy, to the point of being obese, proving that the animals here are very well-fed.

Antiques and not-so-antiques on display along Calle Crislogo

Calle Crisologo - Anything antique (even old vinyl records and magazines), paintings, souvenirs, and some fairly odd items. Also a UNESCO world heritage site, this is the main attraction in Vigan as this is where the old houses are and the street is made of cobblestone. Very nice, especially in the evening.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT:

Plaza Burgos - Where the empanadas can be found. Haha! Get the special empanada for only 35 pesos. Yum! This makes the long trip worth it! Haha! You can also find in the carinderias here the "twisted" Ilokano version of the bulalo or papaitan, the sinanglao, with the vinegar and onions. Yum!

Cafe Leona - Along Calle Crisologo is Cafe Leona. The building is what used to be the house of Leona Florentino, a feminist poet. They have a wide variety of dishes, but you must try the pinakbet pizza!
Bigaa Restaurant at Vigan Plaza Hotel - I find that most hotel restaurants serve so-so, bland food. If you agree, then make this an exception. Food at Bigaa is so good, sometimes we don't bother to leave the hotel anymore, especially is we want to relax. My favorites are their Guardia Sibil, Bagnet con Bagoong, Japanese Sinigang, Mud Pie and Turon Cigars. Yum!

Ask around for: Lomo-lomo (only available early in the a.m, for those who came from a drinking session), puki-puki (eggplant, really good), dinengdeng, dinakdakan (sisig-like), dinuydoy, and of course, the Vigan longganisa and Bagnet (you can buy from the palengke or ask around).

Our favorite empanada maker at one of the stalls in Plaza Burgos

The Vigan longganisa is mainly garlic-y compared to the longganisa from other provinces. I was old the way locals cook it is they poke the casing/skin, then boil it in a little water until the water dries up and the oil from the longganisa comes out. Then fry the longganisa in its own oil. Must have with sukang Iloko.

The Bagnet is basically pork (best if belly) cooked in the following order: boiled in spices, dried, fried, dried, and fried again. Sounds pretty long, huh? You got that right! The techniques and process for cooking depends per home/kitchen/cook of course, with some taking days to prepare. A kilo of raw pork would yield only 1/3 to 1/2 kilo of bagnet. The Bagnet con Bagoong at Café Bigaa (Vigan Plaza Hotel) is a hands-down winner for me.

Cornick - The cornick or chichacorn is corn kernels, sun-dried and fried to crunchy goodness. Some stalls sell the flavored variety. I personally like the spicy and cheese flavored ones.

Tongson Royal Bibingka – Bibingka is mainly glutinous rice, grinded and cooked depending on the techniques of each maker. I asked around and found out that the original seller of the bibingka is Tongson’s, the one right beside Vigan Plaza Hotel. You can also try Marsha’s, which is quite popular especially because they have a wider variety of items to offer.

Mom's Bolero: glutinous rice between sponge cake

WHAT TO BRING HOME:

The usual requests are bagnet, longganisa, cornick, abel Iloko, sukang Iloko (native vinegar) and native garlic or native onions (shallots). You can buy all these (along with other souvenirs) either at the market (palengke) or along Calle Crisologo. If you can, ask your hotel front desk if they can hook you up with the Vigan embutido or Mom’s Bolero. I’m salivating already just thinking about it.

WHERE TO STAY:

Vigan Plaza Hotel - I highly recommend this hotel. It's very rustic yet chic and modern. The rooms are very spacious, staff are courteous, and the food at the hotel restaurant Bigaa is great! Must try their Chokolate de Vigan! Yum!

Grandpa's Inn - It's your quaint little backpacker hotel. Don't be fooled by the looks of this inn. Rooms are affordable, and really nice and homey. The service is very good, the food is great, and they have a bar/coffee shop too. Must try the hotel restaurant’s Dinamita, deep-fried green finger chili stuffed with cheese!

I pretty have a lot more to share on Vigan and other cities in Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte. I will be posting more entries on Vigan and the other places as we discover more. Will surely keep you informed! Much love!

The thread for Abel Iloko just about ready to be loaded into the machine.

Cebu R&R - Plantation Bay Version

I am writing about our Plantation Bay escape in a separate entry to give justice to the experience. Besides, I obviously have a lot to say and it would be terrible to cramp it all up in one entry.

With just an hour of sleep and only airport noodle soup for breakfast, imagine our relief when the accommodating staff of Plantation Bay attended to us and escorted us to the van in less than 5 minutes from when he saw us. Upon arrival, we went to the room, dropped off our bags, and headed straight to one of the restaurants.

Photos taken at Fiji and a photo of part of Plantation Bay's shoreline.

We ended up at Fiji, the Asian food outlet of Plantation Bay. The ambience is very relaxed, still with a tropical touch with the help of the seat covers, and the paintings that have been there since the resort opened. The paintings remind me of the works of Fernando Amorsolo – very beautiful. We ordered and were very satisfied with the grilled platter, which had clams, prawns, salmon, and lobster. They also make their own ice cream, so do try this out. I tried the peanut butter chocolate ice cream and I must say that it’s one of the best ones I’ve had so far. It has the right kick of peanut butter yet it doesn’t overpower the flavor of the chocolate.

Too bad we weren’t able to go for a swim as the weather wasn’t cooperating for most of our trip (Typhoon Gener was in the country at the time). We were also only able to walk around the ‘community’ just a little bit as it was drizzling most of the time. I’m sure it would be lovely to take leisurely strolls around the resort.

What amazed me at Plantation Bay was that they had all of the items we asked for on their menu. We had dinner at Palermo, the Italina/Spanish/Meditteranean outlet. We ordered a serving of Jamon Serrano and their cheese platter to start, plus their bread and some olives. We also ordered the puttanesca, which was recommended by the waiter. Yes, it’s a bit “safe”, but some hotels and restaurants still don’t do it well – and for your information, they do. I was also impressed by how they actually have on stock the selection of wines they have on their menu. We got a bottle of sparkling wine to celebrate.

Our bottle of Brut, Kilimanjaro Kafé, their thick hot chocolate, and the goodies that fill the welcome basket.

The accommodation rates do not include breakfast, which can be a bit of a hassle to some people like us, but very practical also. Kilimanjaro Kafe is the go-to outlet for any meal of the day. We aren’t breakfast eaters, so the buffet breakfast was too much for us. There was of course the option to order ala carte. We had the usual native sausage and hot chocolate set. Theirs is by far the thickest hot chocolate I’ve had my entire life. The server said they dip churros in their hot chocolate as they cook it, resulting in the thick texture and the atypical, interesting taste. The ambience and look of the café is very pleasant as well, exuding a calm, old-world vibe.

Get a massage, too at the Mogambo Springs Spa. The spa has a zen feel to it, with the massage “huts” a good distance apart form each other and the grounds of the spa having Japanese-inspired architecture and a very serene look and feel. The massage was heavenly.

The lovely space that is the Mogambo Springs Spa at Plantation Bay, and the couple's massage room.

We also felt weird not being able to leave tips. It’s odd when the staff actually deserve to be given tips, yet you’re not allowed to. We tried to leave change twice, and on both occasions, the waiter ran after us and gave us our change. But don’t fret, according to their Don’t Panic Booklet (which you get upon check-in), the employees and staff at Plantation Bay are compensated above standard wage and have benefits that most resorts and hotels do not give their workforce. Really good to know.

I could have taken more and even better photos if only the weather would permit. We also weren’t able to do much in Plantation Bay, which is why we definitely intend to go back!

The view from our balcony: Kilimanjaro Kafe and one of the lagoons at Plantation Bay.

For those who’d like to read more, check their website which is refreshingly straight to the point and devoid of the usually videos and photo slideshows and other website frou-frou.

More on our Cebu July 2012 trip here.

Cebu Round Four – Diet? What diet?

I am writing about my fourth trip to Cebu. Why just now?

Well, my first trip to Cebu was when we were actually headed to Bohol, thus it was really just a stopover. My second trip to Cebu was when I attended the Advertising Congress way back when I was in college (2004). I went with my dad who brought me to Tabo-an to buy dried danggit and other fish and seafood like squid, etc. It was also the first (and hopefully not the last) time I had AA Barbecue’s Lechon Baka. On that trip, I remember having a photo taken with my then celebrity crush Matteo Guidicelli, whom at that time was know not as an actor, but as a kart driver. That just about summed up my trip.

My third trip to Cebu was for a wedding we did in Shangri-La Mactan. Though I wasn’t able to leisurely explore sights, we had ample time to look around and eat out.

This fourth trip was scheduled in time for our second wedding anniversary. We got a groupon for a 3D/2N package for two to Bantayan Island. So my plan was for us to spend a night in Mactan or in the city, then head to Bantayan Island for the rest of the trip.

I will write only about what we did during this trip, which doesn't include Bantayan Island as all ferry trips were cancelled due to the storm warning. I'll also post our pleasurable experience at Plantation Bay in another entry to keep this form being too long. 

This, in my opinion, is one of the nicest tributes to Dolphy by someone whose life he touched.
Filipino artists are just amazing!

HOW WE GOT THERE:

There are a number of airlines flying to Cebu from various major cities in the Philippines. We took Zest Air, which operates from the Old Domestic Terminal. We arrived in Mactan an hour late, probably due to Manila runway congestion or the strong winds brought about by typhoon Gener.

WHAT WE DID AND WHAT WE SAW:

Magellan’s Cross – Quite possibly the most popular tourist destination in Cebu, it’s the exact location where explorer Ferdinand Magellan planted the cross when they arrived in 1521, which sparked the beginning of Christianity in the Philippines. The saying “it’s what’s on the inside that matters” applies to this particular instance, as the tindalo cross you see encases the original cross Magellan planted himself.

The Basilica de Sto. Niño,
possibly the most famous landmark in Cebu

Basilica de Sto. Niño – The Church and convent was built in 1565, but was destroyed a couple of times. The Church we see today was built in 1737. The image of the Sto. Niño that is venerated in the Church is also the same figure that was brought by the Spaniards when they arrived in the 1500s, led by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. You can line-up to be able to say a short prayer to the Sto. Niño at the left side of the Church, at the hallway between the courtyard and the main area of the Church. There is a multitude of candle vendors selling candles for you to offer (and not light as this is prohibited) for thanksgiving to Sto. Niño or to the patron saint of your liking.

Lapu-Lapu Shrine – Remember that guy Magellan, who planted the cross? Well, this guy killed him in a bloody battle between the first inhabitants and the colonizers. Lapu-Lapu was a Datu, a native leader, similar to a king. He led the natives in the Battle of Mactan wherein they revolted against the Portugese explorer and his men. The bronze statue gives honor to the first man who fought for our country and can aptly be called the Philippines’ first hero.

WHERE AND WHAT WE ATE:

The husband/boyfriends of these ladies must be afraid of them. She chopped the lechon in half in just one swing!

CnT Lechon – Basic: lechon, lumpia, puso. If you want a bit more, try adding pansit. Best to come for lunch as they only cook a certain number per day. Should you decide to eat lunch at their main restaurant in Guadalupe (1377 Rama Ave.) or their branch at the Reclamation area (across SM) for lunch, be sure to make a reservation ([032] 254-4249, [032] 254-6641), or arrive really early (like 10:30am) or late (like 1:30pm) to avoid the long queue.

When you get there, grab a number and wait for your number to be called. If you are already called and the part you desire is no longer available, you can opt to have the others “overtake” you, then you’ll just be given priority in choosing your part of choice when they open the next one. Choosing of a particular part makes the process longer actually. When we went for the wedding in May, we had to wait an hour (!) for our number to be called. Luckily, they had just opened one when our turn came. So naturally, I chose the mid, bottom/under portion of the belly. Worth every minute and every calorie! As the saying goes, “good things come to those who wait.”

Or, you may just head to the food court of SM or Ayala Center. But should you wish to bring back home some lechon, the main branch or the Reclamation are your options. They pack the lechon very well anyway, so it saves you some hassle.

AA Barbecue – AA Barbecue is quite possibly one of the most popular sugba (grill) joints in Cebu. I first tried AA’s when we went to Cebu for the Ad Congress. My dad and I had the lechon baka. I recall the baka being very tender and full of flavor. Which is why this time, I insited that we go to Lahug where their main branch is, to make sure there’s lechon baka. Unfortunately, upon arrival, I discovered that they no longer serve the lechon baka and only do so very rarely. This broke my heart. But of course, we can’t let a setback rain on our parade. So we still got a few things we liked: tender-to-the-bone pork ribs, flavorful fish, chicken fillet and my favorite, their grilled squid squares. What I like most about their grilled squid is that it’s so tender and tasty that you know for sure it’s fresh and cooked right. For first-timers, upon arrival, go to the counter, get a tray and choose your goodies. When done, hand them over to the counter and they will cook it for you. You must also try their tropical twister cooler, which is similar to four seasons but has slices of about 5 different fruits. Truly refreshing!

The Boneless Lechon Belly, Bangus Tinapa,
Lomboy and Iba Shake, and the dipping sauce of
vinegar, chili oil and soy sauce. 

Zubuchon – In tribute to foodies, I just had to try Zubuchon – the restaurant that rose from the exposé of Anthony Bourdain on the Cebu Lechon. Zubuchon takes pride in not using MSG, buying native pigs from independent growers, using olive oil, and doing lechon the old fashioned way (think pigs slowly roasting on bamboo poles over a bed of charcoal). They also puncture the lechon which gives it a distinct character and gives the skin the Zubuchon crisp and texture. I’ve tried the boneless pork belly and the pritchon style. I must say I like the belly better. We also tried their kalabasa soup, pickled vegetables, and the tinapang bangus belly with onions, tomatoes and salted egg (definite winner!). Cool down with their iba (kamias) or lomboy (duhat) shake and finish off with the budbud kabug – suman made with millet seeds, cooked with coconut milk in banana leaves. The budbud is best consumed hot.

Spice Fusion – If you want a break from all the walking around and lechon munching, try Spice Fusion in SM Reclamation. The restaurant serves Asian food and I must say they are quite good at it. We had sweet and sour fish, salt and pepper pork, and steamed garlic kaylan, which we all loved.

The Husband and my Churros con Chocolate

Tablea Chocolate Cafe – We looked for Tablea mainly because a foodie friend requested us to get her packs of instant chocolate from here. Knowing she has good taste in food, I knew I had to grab a cup for myself. So I ordered the Chocolate con Churros, while husband ordered a cup of their basic hot chocolate. We weren’t disappointed. In fact, I finished the churros, and even asked the servers for some milk to add to the dipping chocolate so I can drink it (as it was too thick to drink). In the end, we didn’t just buy for my friend -  we bought a few packs for ourselves, too!

WHAT WE BROUGHT HOME:

Dried Mangoes – One of the things Cebu is famous for. The Philippines is probably the biggest, if not the lone exporter of dried mangoes to the U.S.A. and the world. There are several good brands to choose from, depending on each person’s taste. I strongly suggest you try several brands so you’ll find the one to your liking.

Lechon – Once family or friends in Manila (or wherever it is you’re from) find out you’re headed to Cebu, it’s usually lechon they ask you to bring home. After all, Cebu lechon is indeed the most popular of  provincial lechon in the Philippines. As to what brand, well, to each his own really. We are still trying to explore the differences in taste specifically for the take-home lechon.

WHERE WE STAYED:

Lowaii Recreation Area

Lowaii Cebu Marine Resort (Suba Basbas, Mactan; near Pacific Cebu resort and same road as Plantation Bay)

It’s far, and by that I mean FAR. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a lot to love about this place. The resort is designed in such a way that there are a few “common” native huts, with a Balinese-inspired look, casual and cozy vibe. They have modern furniture also in some areas, which adds spunk to the place. Couldn’t say I love the room, but I don’t get queasy thinking about it either. Can’t say I love the food, but it ain’t bad. What I’m most impressed with is that despite the resort’s being far out and the weather situation while we were there (strong winds and terrible rain), the employees were more than willing to respond to requests and remained courteous all throughout our stay. The kitchen staff even exerted extra effort when we asked for a box to put our excess baggage (they gave us the box of their osterizer, A+ for effort!).

Sto. Niño de Cebu as sold in the streets outside the Church

I’m very aware there is more to Cebu than just this, so I will write more entries whenever I go back to Cebu and explore more. Will keep you posted!:-)